Introduction:

First things first, building a car like this is NOT something most people can afford to do, nor is it something I recommend people do. In this article, I’ll be laying out 3 versions of this build. A ‘cheap’ version showing what components I could have subbed out to have a *similar* result that cost significantly less. The ‘actual’ version which is the components I have in the car. And the ‘ideal’ version which is what I would buy if I could afford it. At the end I’ll add a rough estimate of what labor on something like this would be as well, but that number will not be the bible, it will just be based on what we charge.

For full disclosure, I did not purchase the parts at retail. That being said, none of the parts on the car were free. There were no sponsors on this car (unless you count free labor at the shop as a sponsor), it was completely built out of pocket.

Abstract:The point of this build was simply to have the ‘ultimate street car’. When Hondas start getting fast, all the excuses start coming out. ‘Oh you had to cut your car to pieces to be faster’, ‘It’s not a street car if it needs slicks’, ‘At least I can drive back home in AC’, etc. This car was specifically built to mitigate all excuses. The only one left is a matter of weight, but the mouth breathers that cry about a 1994 Honda Civic being light don’t understand that AWD is another +200lbs heavier from the factory and unrealistically expect you to bolt on 1000+lbs of additional weight for zero reason.The idea was simple, AWD, OEM+ MONSTER Build. Retain all interior. Make the car feel like it should have came that way from the factory. Retain all creature comforts. Operation should be simple and the car should ‘JUST WORK’.

The Build Breakdown

Chassis:

This is the first and foremost part of building a car. Step 1: find a car. My starting chassis was a 1994 Honda Civic VX. I got it for a variety of reasons. Firstly, the paint and body were in great shape. I’m of the opinion that if you’re doing a ground-up build, a cheap hack to avoid spending ~$5-10k right off the bat is to buy a car with acceptable body/paint. I’m not looking for a show car, but I also dont want dented up panels and multi-tone stuff I have to fix later. Also, I’m just picky, and even with expensive paint jobs, i’ve never been impressed with a repainted car. For me, OEM paint that has its nicks and scratches don’t bother me because it tells a story about a car. Brand new paint with specs in the paint, runs, light overspray would drive me INSANE after spending the money. Second, I like to call the VX a ‘baser than base model’ car. The VX was the stripped down model of the civic meant for economy. When I first purchased the car, I drove it from Tulsa, OK to Omaha, NE. (~400 miles). And was shocked to find out the car legitimately got 65+MPG. I purchased my Civic in 2017 for $2850 All original, 1 owner. I even have the window sticker from when it was purchased in 1994 for $11,000. While I’ll list the price of the civic at $2850 because that’s what I paid, nowadays, finding a chassis like this one is borderline impossible for that price. I would say to expect $5-7k for similar. But also, to go fast, you don’t need a clean chassis.

Budget: $1000

Actual: $2850

Ideal: $6000

Rolling Total:

Budget: $1000

Actual: $2850

Ideal: $6000

Suspension:

Knowing this car was going to go fast, I invested pretty heavily in replacing EVERYTHING. I wanted to leave nothing to chance as far as the car going straight every time. It would really suck to spend a ton of money on a car for a bad bushing to take it out.Coilovers, I opted for Progress CSII. In my opinion, the best budget coilover option and the CSIIs have a large assortment of spring options. I opted for the 450lb front with a 350lb rear. (I originally had this coilover setup on an all motor K20, so wasn’t really planning on a ton of load on the rear.) Having swapped to AWD, I’m wanting to try a ~550-750lb spring in the rear to see how it reacts.All Bushings were replaced with Energy Suspension bushings. The response from the car was immediately noticeable. The classic honda ‘float’ immediately gone. Also, swapping the bushings instead of entire arms, saves you money. As long as they’re not bent bushings offer immediate improvement. The benefit for billet replacement control arms, etc. are lighter weight components, but I personally was looking to get the maximum performance while remaining (somewhat) cost conscious.Front Upper Control Arms: I opted for the K-Tuned adjustable front upper control arms. The control arms on my chassis were completely shot, and the arms come with new poly bushings so rather than buy new arms then swap the bushings or just use the rubber, I elected for just new aftermarket units with bushings already installed.On a budget, you can get away with probably just a decent set of coilovers, bushings etc are salt to taste.Ideally, basically everything I did, with a set of higher end coilovers like Strange.

Budget: $700

Actual: $1500

Ideal: $3500

Rolling Total:

Budget: $1700

Actual: $4350

Ideal: $9500

Engine:

The engine is more or less set up to handle whatever we throw at it within reason. It’s not a full 1300+HP longblock, but it is our HP1000 Longblock rated to 1000HP. The engine uses Saenz 300M Rods, Humble Performance Outlaw Pistons on a CSS High HP Block w/ Orings, and our Humble Performance 800-1000HP Turbo Head Package.This engine is built to rev to 10.5-11,000RPM, and make 1000HP.To run 9s, A simple rod/piston stock sleeve K20 or K24 should suffice. Good set of valves/springs retainers should also be capable of making the 700-800HP required.Ideally, if you had an unlimited budget, I would invest in a sleeved engine with a ported cylinder head to maximize gains.

Budget: $5500

Actual: $9500

Ideal: $11000

Rolling Total:

Budget: $7200

Actual: $13,850

Ideal: $20,500

Turbo Setup:

The turbo setup on this car is pretty straightforward. This car utilizes a modified version of our Humble Performance Budget Turbo Kit V3. This car is the prototype car for setting up our future High HP kit. The key differences are: 2x Wastegates, 3” Intercooler piping. The turbocharger is a Precision 6466. On a budget, this can be built with chinese stuff, longevity will likely suffer. In our experience, most chinese parts are good to 4-600. But when you start getting up in power, the heat starts messing with things like breaking manifolds, turbos don’t like the power, among many things. But it’s possible to do something similar with cheap parts for ~½ the cost.Ideally, I would opt for a higher end manifold, or even a top mount to make servicing easier. Really not much more beyond that.

Budget: $3000

Actual: $6250

Ideal: $6500

Rolling Total:

Budget: $10,200

Actual: $20,100

Ideal: $27,000

Transmission:

Transmission setup on this car is also pretty straightforward. This car uses a BF Gears Helical Synchro gear stack (turbo ratios). I opted for helical over straight cut for the noise. I opted for a synchro box over a dog box because of street driveability. One thing that really isn’t mentioned with dogboxes is how easy it is to damage them street driving. Personally, I’m not a fan of rounding off dogs and having them recut or replaced regularly, so I opted for synchro for full street driveability. The car uses a Honda element transmission. Stock Final Drive, Stock Transfer gear with a Quaife AWD LSD.On a budget, you can use a stock transmission. At that point your time is extremely limited. I think my transmission setup is the true ‘budget’ for a 700-900HP car. But I’ll put a stock trans at the budget price.Ideally, I would put an aftermarket final drive, transfer gear, and hypoids in the car. I’m personally not a believer in the billet cases, but thats your prerogative.

Budget: $1000

Actual: $5500

Ideal: $9250

Rolling Total:

Budget: $11,200

Actual: $25,600

Ideal: $36,250

AWD System:

I’ve written an article on setting up the AWD system already but I’ll lay this one out simple.This car uses stock Wagon parts from an 89-91 RT4WD Civic Wagon and a Hub City Performance AWD Kit paired with Hasport EGK2 Mounts. There’s really not anything beyond that.On a Budget: The cheapest (good) way to AWD swap is to use the CRV/Element rear diff with a Freelander Driveshaft/Viscous Coupler. I also strongly recommend upgrading the ujoints on this setup as the freeland shaft is significantly weaker than the Wagon. But thats something you can figure out on your own. You can also buy Wagon rear arms and graft them onto the stock trailing arms and fabricate your own diff mount for way cheaper than buying a $2500 conversion kit.Ideally, I would also elect to put an LSD in the rear and upgrade all the driveshaft joints to 1310 UJoints as well as DSS X4 Axles.

Budget: $800

Actual: $5500

Ideal: $8750

Rolling Total:

Budget: $12,000

Actual: $31,100

Ideal: $45,000

Electronics:

For the electronics, I went overboard and elected to do things far beyond what anyone needs to do to make a car like this work. I knew I would be using a ton of inputs and outputs to maintain everything, so I opted for my personal favorite ecu, the Haltech Elite 2500. As far as haltech accessories, i kept it simple with the Haltech WB1 wideband and the Haltech IC7 Digital display. I also use a Haltech 12-way trimpot to be able to adjust settings on the fly. 

As far as sensors, I’m monitoring fuel pressure, oil pressure, and coolant pressure using Low Doller Motorsports sensors. On the shifter, I’m using a GP1 strain gauge for flat shift (I’ll probably be switching to clutch switch soon). The muffler is a Varex Straight through design with a built in electronic valve to make the car loud and quiet (like stock d16 exhaust quiet), also wired and controlled through the ECU. I’m also using a K-Tuned 72mm DBW throttle body to utilize things like Cruise control and use the throttle body for launching strategies. 

All that to say, none of it is required, it just helped me fulfill my goals at the beginning of the article. The car still uses a stock RSX-S Engine Harness with the Haltech K Series Jumper (heavily modified jumper)On a budget, KPro works fine.Ideally, in my opinion, my setup is pretty much ideal. The only thing I would change is a brand new engine harness made with everything I’ve added already integrated. (This is coming for me personally, I just wanted to test everything first before finalizing it in an engine harness) If anything, would add a IO expander box to add more sensors. But my setup is more than adequate for most people. So anything on top of what I have is just extra.

Budget: $1500 (KPro + RSX-S Engine Harness)

Actual: $6500

Ideal: $8500

Rolling Total:

Budget: $13,500

Actual: $37,600

Ideal: $53,500

Swap Parts:

This should be an obvious inclusion, parts needed to K Swap. Engine mounts (mentioned previously but I didnt include it in the total), Harness (included in electronics total), random odds/ends (axles, pulleys, radiator hoses, radiator, etc)With my car, I opted for a 4 core radiator and all K-Tuned accessories. I’m using 62A Hasport EGK2 mounts (these need to be 70 or 88). I’m also using stock Autozone 32mm Axles.Ideally, I’d opt for stronger axles. Like DSS 5.9s if you plan on running slicks. But at the minimum, 36mm Axles w/ Karcepts hubs.

Budget: $900

Actual: $2500

Ideal: $5000

Rolling Total:

Budget: $14,400

Actual: $40,100

Ideal: $58,500

Exhaust:

This is one I get a ton of questions about. My car is AWD with a full exhaust. We accomplished this by running the exhaust alongside the tunnel using 3” oval tube. Routed it under the rear AWD mount (with some notching) and ran an N1 style angled exhaust. I’ve always wanted an angled muffler on an EG, so this worked out perfect for me.On a budget: you can run a hood exit. There really is no budget way to run the exhaust under the car.Ideally: My setup is ideal.

Budget: $300

Actual: $1200

Ideal: $1200

Rolling Total:

Budget: $14,700

Actual: $41,300

Ideal: $59,700

Fuel System:

For my car, I simply got an ebay 10gal fuel cell, vibrant lines, 2x DW 350iL fuel pumps, a fuel filter, regulator, rail. And hobbled together my own fuel setup. The car also has DW2200cc Injectors.On a budget: At Least 1500-1700cc injectors from a REPUTABLE company (not chinese/not ebay BS). Is a NON-NEGOTIABLE. Everything else, I’d more or less leave the same.Ideally: 8x 1650cc Injectors. With an 8 injector manifold to allow up to 1000-1200HP reliably. Everything else the same, maybe a nice fuel cell.

Budget: $1100

Actual: $1900

Ideal: $4300

Rolling Total:

Budget: $15,800

Actual: $43,200

Ideal: $64,000

Accessories:

This section will more or less operate as a catch-all for anything I’ve missed. This car has AC. I used the Hybrid Racing AC Kit utilizing an EK condenser and brand new drier, evaporator, etc. (budget doesnt need all new, but if your system is old and has been open, you’ll likely need new) Traction bar (should have been under suspension, oh well lol).Intake Manifold I utilized a stock RBC. (This is what I recommend for budget)

Budget: $700

Actual: $1200

Ideal: $1200

Rolling Total:

Budget: $16,500

Actual: $44,400

Ideal: $65,200

Conclusion:
In case it isn't obvious, this is an expensive endeavor. The internet as a whole has really skewed the reality of building these cars. These numbers provided are NO labor. I would account for at least ~$10,000 labor if you're not doing all the work yourself. I'm also sure I misse dsome minor odds and ends here and there, but this guide serves as more of a general guideline to how much it costs to build an AWD car from the ground up. Hopefully you can go into your project with a more realistic expectation.

Finally, You can follow this guide a general idea of how you structure your personal build, but it must be said. You can put ALL the best parts on your car, and it will NEVER guarantee a problem-free operation. When budgeting for this level of car, it's a good idea to have 2x the money in the bank. You WILL be rebuilding and replacing parts frequently. That's just a part of the game. If you think you can do this and never have to lift a finger afterwards, you might as well just quit now.